I have read about Egypt, studied her ancient mysteries, journeyed into etheric space in her temples and tombs, delighted in the juxtaposition of temple and stars, marveled and wondered and dreamt and despaired of going there.
And suddenly, a trip materialized. One that was organized by my sister, so that we had our own tour as there were 15 of us family and friends; a tour where we Indian food was planned for us vegetarians, and without us doing much except sending money, answering emails and organizing visas, we had a wonderful 7-day holiday in that fabled land.
At Edfu temple
What surprises me, is that after all that I had lived with, about Egypt, there was still so much that was unexpected. When I visited Paris a few years ago, it was like seeing postcards come to life; a sense of unreality till I passed by a bakery, when it all came alive. But Egypt was alive from the start.
I had expected to see more tourists than Egyptians but was pleasantly surprised as we had an Egyptologist guiding us; and naturally, the many who work around the tourist industry.
Impressions, sights and sounds that stand out: [I'm borrowing some pictures from the web; as mine are taking too long to upload]
The city of Cairo that looked a little like Delhi at night; with wide roads near the President's palace.
Cairo at night
Bordering
Giza is just across the Nile, which is surprisingly narrow here. We could see the pyramids towering over many places in the town. "It's still not hit me!" said my daughter.
The beautiful town of
Luxor, where the temple of Luxor is right there, by the water, and the temple of Karnak a little way in.
And the even more beautiful
Aswan, way down South, with those Nubian homes and buildings. Seeing the beauty and pride of Nubian culture. As we walked the streets from the souk, we came across a huge Catholic church. No, didn't take pics here.
Being shown temples and tombs of
ancient Egyptians who prayed to Ra and a host of other gods and godly kings, by
Muslim and Christian guides who have beautifully melded it all together, realizing that tourism and their ancient culture are a major source of their national heritage and economy. They say that Muslims and Christians live together in harmony.
"Habibi!" which is what our guide would call out, to get us all to gather around him before we wandered off into those amazing temples. "What does it mean?" I asked him. "My love' or 'My beloved'.", he said. O---K! So when I called out Habibi to my husband, I had to clarify--"He is MY habibi. You are OUR habibi". Some light-hearted fun.
Learning to dance to Egyptian music wearing gallabayas adorned with ancient Egyptian gods! I loved the tempo and the beat. And no, it wasn't bellydance. There's more than that there!
"Basshn, basshan, India! I love Amitabh Bashan [Amitabh Bachchan, aging superstar of Bollywood]. That's what shopkeepers, little kids, horse carriage drivers and others would call out, on seeing us! Thanks Amitabh Bachchan, you got me some good deals at a souk, when I insisted, that if the shopkeeper could make me smile, he'd make Bachchan smile too. [Of course, with haggling, who knows who really wins?]
"No hassle"--signs on shops that means, "No haggling." yeah, right! The joy of shopping in an Arab or any eastern souk is haggling!
Schoolgirls walking arm in arm down the Cornich on Aswan, necks and heads covered, but faces uncovered. I was amazed at the freedom and safety they apparently felt, even late evening.
McDonald's on the bank of the River Nile at Aswan, with a curious mix of heiroglyphics, Arabic head-dresses, trendy music, English and Arabic script. These aren't my pictures, but I feel these are the same people we saw!

Seeing the
smile on our teenagers' faces when the guide was having them act as Isis, and Osiris and the others at Edfu. Shocking teenagers with a legendary story is a good strategy to get their attention!
Seeing one of them getting photographed with "History Rocks!" after she'd mused at the beginning of the trip: "Why do we study history?"
The graffiti at temple and tomb walls, some of it by the other cultures that over-ran the land, or by jealous successors.
The temple of Hatshepsut, the female pharoah who ruled as the male Hatshepsu. This is the site of the massacre of American tourists a few years ago; and there were snipers guarding the high hills bordering the temple.

Filming YOU! At Hatshepsut temple
It's a little disappointing that we saw no statues of her here. "We're hurting at the loss of many of our artefacts," said the guide, "they're in every museum of the world." I had to agree. I feel I've seen more of King Tut's treasures in the traveling exhibition when it visited Fort Lauderdale's tiny museum, than in the Cairo museum. Of course, those huge boxes in which his mummy was buried, are unusual to that museum. [photography not allowed].
That's another thing: photography isn't allowed inside temples, tombs and the museum. I guess they'd rather we buy books and videos. It's annoying to see people still sneaking in pictures.

At the Sphinx
The
narrow pathway into the pyramid of Khafra. I blessed the exercise schedule that allowed me to climb up and down steep slopes, half bent, on the path of early tomb visitors [or raiders?] Nothing to raid now!

What's surprising is that much more is being dug up. We saw a newly discovered tomb being excavated. Who knows what treasures will be dug up?
We'll have to visit Egypt again, and before I do, I know I'll do so in memory, photos, discussions, traveler's tales, and...meditation.
And till then, I will blog about that other unexpected gift of Egypt. The River Nile.